20 best things to do and see in Montenegro

(CNN) — Heroic-looking highlands, pretty blonde bays overlooking the royal blue Adriatic Sea, antique Venetian villages and UNESCO walled cities.

Montenegro might be small, but this gorgeous nation has a huge array of natural and man-made wonders.

Mountainous hinterland nestles deep canyons, gushing rivers, glacial lakes and primeval forest, popular for adventure activity. The serpentine coast skirts glistening ports, from palazzo-embellished Perast in UNESCO-protected Bay of Kotor, to Tivat, a swanky super yacht marina.

Here are the 20 best things to see:

1. Budva

Ancient history is there in the waterfront stone old town, Stari Grad, where marble streets and Venetian walls jut out of crystalline waters. Views from the Citadela are unparalleled, by day or while dancing the night away.

2. Herceg Novi

Swimmers will delight in pristine waters at the pebble bay. Olive groves burrow the 300 meter-long Žanjic beach, while Uvala Veslo is for adventurers seeking cliff-jumping and strong swimming currents.

Tip: For a touch of the quaint, Rose village hamlet at the tip of the peninsula serves a clutch of authentic summer al fresco dining spots, with glorious views.

3. Lake Skadar

Lesser-known and a true Montenegrin highlight, Skadar forms the largest freshwater lake in the Balkans, straddling Montenegro and Albania. The former summer residence of the Montenegrin royal family is a wildlife wilderness and birder’s paradise, comprising rolling green Karst mountains, floral fields and lily-strewn lakeshores.

Boat tours traverse the wetlands from between one to six hours, taking in island monasteries, traditional fishing villages, fortresses, ancient monuments and hidden beaches. All this is reinforced by 260 species of bird, 50 species of fish and three types of resident snake.

4. Tara Canyon

A 150 meter-high bridge on the Tara River is widely known as one of the most beautiful in the world. Clad in dense pine forests and clear lakes, the 82-kilometer canyon is one of the world’s deepest and largest, splicing the mountains of Durmitor National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Celebrated whitewater rafting, jeep safaris, canyoning and zip-lining satisfy the adrenaline junkies, but for those wanting a bird’s eye view, head up Mount Ćurevac.

5. Durmitor

Created by glaciers and crisscrossed by underground streams and rivers, the Durmitor National Park limestone massif spans 39,000 acres across north-western Montenegro and Bosnia & Herzegovina.

Eighteen glacial lakes known as “mountain eyes” bejewel the land, of which Black Lake is largest. The park also houses 12 to 16th century Stecci; elaborately decorated carved tombstones and blocks.

Tip: Take passports along, as drives can cross borders. Trekking, mountaineering, affordable Alpine and Nordic skiing, fishing and camping are great ways to experience Durmitor.

6. Kotor

A steady 1,200 meter ascent of the 14th century town walls rewards visitors with magazine cover views across the deeply-indented fjord-like Bay of Kotor, coined Boka Bay.

7. Njegos Mausoleum

Tip: Nearby Njeguši village, birthplace of the Petrovic dynasty, is the place to indulge in divine home-made cheese and prosciutto smoked hams, made the local way.

8. Ostrog Monastery

Carved into a sheer vertical cliff, the piercing white Ostrog Monastery is a sacred pilgrimage for Orthodox Christians and entire gamut of religions. The incredulous feat of architecture is surrounded by bountiful scenery of the rolling Zeta valley.

Founded in the 1600s, by the Bishop of Herzegovina Vasilije, whose remains are enshrined in the upper cave church, the monastery’s inside walls are covered in antique painted frescoes. The ancient upper monastery houses two spectacular churches and is widely considered a miracle, as nobody knows how it came to be.

Tip: The lower monastery has bunks, mats and blankets for summer visitors wanting to spend the night.

A natural spring behind the monastery provides refreshing water. Modest clothing is needed to enter the shrine.

Tour buses operate day trips here from most popular spots in Montenegro, at around €30. Or take the train to Ostrog station and hike up for an hour.

9. Sveti Stefan

Sveti Stefan island graces global magazine covers. It’s easy to see why. A red-roofed tangle of irregularly shaped whitewashed stone villas is suspended above turquoise sea, linked to a pink-sand beach by a jetty.

Formerly a fishing village jutting out on a peninsula, the walled island was a haven for families needing protection from invading Turks and pirates in the 1400s. Churches and ancient inscriptions are peppered throughout.

10. Perast

The highlight floats offshore, where two picturesque island churches take centre-stage. Boat trips depart regularly from Perast.

11. Island Churches, Kotor

It’s believed the church was erected by locals depositing stones around a rock apparition of the Madonna and Child. Inside, the 1630 narrow church is adorned in paintings, donated silver votives and a precious hair-woven image of Madonna and Child. Regular boat trips are the best way to get up close.

12. Ulcinj

The southernmost town of Ulcinj, near the Albanian border, offers a unique Eastern feel owing to its former Ottoman control. At the fall of the Ottoman navy, Ulcinj became a notorious pirate lair. Today, the town is a curious mix of mosques, minarets and prominent nudist beach.

Standing over the town, Sailor’s Mosque, a former lighthouse, offers sumptuous views.

Stari Bar makes a fascinating stroll past Arabic inscriptions, Turkish baths and clock tower confirming the comingling of East and West. A purportedly 2,000-year-old olive tree stands testament to the evocative evolution of Ulcinj.

Tip: Hidden wonders lie offshore. Deep-sea fishing and diving are popular activities, amongst historic ancient shipwrecks brought down during the centuries-endured piracy boom.

13. Biogradska Gora

Popular activities include mountaineering, skiing, camping, trekking, four-by-fouring and mountain biking.

Tip: It’s easy to drive through the national park, but for those wanting to hike or trek, well-marked trails start at Biograd Lake. Camping is allowed and there are some accommodation huts, for those wanting to stay and explore.

14. Cetinje

The honorary capital of Montenegro is charming in its authenticity. It’s a short drive in from the coast at Budva to the 15th century former royal capital and cradle of Montenegrin culture.

15. Lustica Bay

Year-round sunshine, olive groves, crystalline waters and forested hills give it an island feeling, yet with proximity to three airports.

The town will feature more than a thousand homes, villas and townhouses, two marinas, seven hotels, championship golf course and a host of recreational and medical facilities.

A nearby state-of-the-art marina and private jet airports steers in luxury travelers.

16. Podgorica

This ancient city oversees the confluence of rivers Morača and Ribnica. The capital city of Montenegro is a jumble of architecture and unsubtle buildings, from glitzy new shopping centers to Ottoman curios.

17. Porto Montenegro

The youngest kid on the tourist scene is a stark contrast to the ancient fishing villages of the Bay of Kotor.

Positioned on a sunny peninsula at the foot of Mount Vrmac, Tivat was once the region’s center of salt manufacturing as well as a strategic naval base. Today, it hosts an international airport and is undergoing a jetset-lifestyle renaissance thanks to its new superyacht marina.

Coffee and cake refueling stops are a must here, before visiting the Naval Heritage Collection museum. The Regent spa is unadulterated bliss on the harbor, while the cuisine is of international gourmet standard.

18. Sveti Nikola

With deer as the only permanent residents, it’s a popular getaway for locals and tourists in the summer, who cross on regular boat ferries from Budva.

A small 16th century church, Crkva Sveti Nikole sits in the island.

Tip: It’s known locally as Hawaii, but don’t be fooled. There are no sandy beaches. But the waters are warm and rocky shores have a raw charm. A water taxi from Budva costs around €5 return per person for the 10 minute crossing. Food and drink is available on the island. Look out for deer roaming freely and fish lapping at the feet.

19. Blue Grotto Cave, Lustica Peninsula

As light hits the waters, it refracts emitting a luminous shade of blue, giving the Blue Grotto its name. Swimming or boating in these vibrant waters feels magical. Blue Grotto is on cruise ship itineraries, so summers can get busy.

Tip: Visit during off-peak time where possible, when there’s nothing better than grabbing an oar and kayaking into the nine-meter tall cave, without the hefty summer tourist throngs. Kotor Bay Tours have group itineraries by boat with skipper.

20. Mount Orjen

The highest mountain on the Adriatic coastline is a Dinaric range of limestone straddling Montenegro and Bosnia & Herzegovina. The slopes are a haven for skiers in winter and trekkers in summer, with a range of activity levels and trails.

Tip: Hiking through the sea of stone is pitted with deep caves. A guide is essential for certain regions, for safety and exploring hidden parts or geology.

Anisha Shah is a journalist and photographer, specializing in emerging destinations travel, from Mozambique to Myanmar. After six years as a BBC radio and TV journalist, she is now freelance and has been published across media outlets including CNN, Africa Geographic and Huffington Post. Tweet her @anishahbbc

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